Journal

21 Aug 2026

The temple road before seven in the morning

By ten it is full. Between five and seven it belongs to the people who live here, walking the kora with their prayer wheels. If you are awake, this is the...

Read more →

09 Aug 2026

A courtyard house, and why we never enclosed it

Every family here has been offered good money to roof the courtyard and add rooms. We did not, and the reason is the peepal tree in the middle of it, which...

Read more →

28 Jul 2026

Vegetarian, and not apologetically

There is no meat in this kitchen and there never has been. My mother cooks what her mother cooked — Kangra vegetarian, not the hotel version. Here is a wee...

Read more →